Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Pumpernickel EXPLAINED
Check out this very nice explanation of pumpernickel bread's history and requisite baking technique. I try a freestanding pumpernickel loaf this weekend and, while it is not especially true to the bread's German heritage, it is likely easier to make and will certainly serve its purpose well. On a related note, I have baked almost every recipe in the Bread Baker's Apprentice and am about ready to move on. I do not think it is necessary to bake every variation of every bread and I may skip a few of the sweeter breads.
The important thing to remember about pumpernickel is that it began as a bread for the very poor. It was the cheapest bread, made of the coarsest possible flour (rye meal, rye chops), filled with left-over stale bread that had been re-soaked (free & saves on fresh water, as the bread usually doesn't require any added water beyond what the soaked bread holds after squeezing - it can even be soaked in leftover coffee), usually without sweetners of any kind (too expensive), made with sourdough (yeast being also expensive), and "steamed" in its own liquid in last heat of a cooling oven after everything else useful had been baked.
Looked at from a waste-nothing peasant perspective, pumpernickel is all good. That it tastes great, smells incredible, and marries perfectly with ham and blue cheese is a plus. Of course as time goes on, even Westphalian peasants become more affluent (go civilization!) and they can afford to add sweeteners (honey, molasses), some wheat flour, and even flavoring spices (caraway, coriander, cocoa, coffee). Over time they no longer treasure the pumpernickel for its cheapness but for its wonderful compatibility wth pork and strong farm cheeses. So how do we bake this today?
Findng high-quality rye meal is very difficult nowadays - even King Arthur has pretty much stopped selling it. And this is a pity, esp. as recent science (e.g. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2010/05/100505091919.htm) has shown that rye has unique properties that promote heart health, insulin regulation, and weight loss - just in case you always wondered how Germans and Scandinavians can eat so many high-fat pork products and yet remain relatively slender and healthy! Because they used to eat mainly whole grain rye breads of various types.
What's interesting is that rye has a lot of natural fructose (fruit sugar) of a type called fructans. Wheat has about 4% of these, but rye has almost double that, about 7%. It's these sugars that allow the distinctive crust and color of pumpernickel to emerge during the long steaming. Properly slow-steamed pumpernickel wlll turn very dark on its own, as the crust fructans caramelize (fructose caramelizes at 230F), and the crumb undergoes intense Maillard reactions.
To ensure this, the baking process should be anywhere from 16-24 hours. And because high-percentage rye breads will tend to gum up from the pentosans, a long maturation period of 24-36 hours before cutting will allow the crumb to equalize and develop.
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
I Told Santa I Was Jewish
My sister has compiled a very excellent webzine here. Titled "I Told Santa I Was Jewish: Tales of Hebraic Awkwardness at Yuletide," it is sure to warm your hearts during this interminably long holiday season.
Hanukkah was early this year (December 1). The holiday season is always a bit awkward. I have come to terms with the lack of Hanukkah music and the weak, if present, public displays. I have never craved the public recognition of my religious practices, perhaps because I am quite comfortable with the role of Jews and Judaism in American life. But, even an atheist like me can't help but feel like a member of the Green party; an also ran in a highly public election. Christmas is not my holiday, but it is all-consuming from Thanksgiving until the 25th. The "holiday season" is one, long, not-so-covert celebration of Christmas, punctuated with decorated trees, music, and Snoopy.
I propose ridding our culture of the term "holiday season" as well as "happy holidays." Let's just be honest with ourselves. I propose that we maintain the current two month long celebration of Christmas, but that during the eight nights of Hanukkah, our country's focus entirely shifts to the otherwise-insignificant Festival of Lights. All Christmas music ceases; all commercials featuring people buying Christmas gifts and bonding are instead replaced by PSAs featuring Hasidic Jews, warning of the dangers of improperly placed Hanukkiah candles (and instructing the rest of the country to not recognize Reform or Conservative Judaism); greeters at stores wish shoppers happy Hanukkah in perfect Hebrew; and the White House erects a massive Hanukkiah on the front lawn (although I would also accept a slightly smaller Hanukkiah on the tip of the Washington Monument). Then, after we get our eight days, we turn it back over as if nothing happened.
Hanukkah was early this year (December 1). The holiday season is always a bit awkward. I have come to terms with the lack of Hanukkah music and the weak, if present, public displays. I have never craved the public recognition of my religious practices, perhaps because I am quite comfortable with the role of Jews and Judaism in American life. But, even an atheist like me can't help but feel like a member of the Green party; an also ran in a highly public election. Christmas is not my holiday, but it is all-consuming from Thanksgiving until the 25th. The "holiday season" is one, long, not-so-covert celebration of Christmas, punctuated with decorated trees, music, and Snoopy.
I propose ridding our culture of the term "holiday season" as well as "happy holidays." Let's just be honest with ourselves. I propose that we maintain the current two month long celebration of Christmas, but that during the eight nights of Hanukkah, our country's focus entirely shifts to the otherwise-insignificant Festival of Lights. All Christmas music ceases; all commercials featuring people buying Christmas gifts and bonding are instead replaced by PSAs featuring Hasidic Jews, warning of the dangers of improperly placed Hanukkiah candles (and instructing the rest of the country to not recognize Reform or Conservative Judaism); greeters at stores wish shoppers happy Hanukkah in perfect Hebrew; and the White House erects a massive Hanukkiah on the front lawn (although I would also accept a slightly smaller Hanukkiah on the tip of the Washington Monument). Then, after we get our eight days, we turn it back over as if nothing happened.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Auriemma is amazing
Check out a brief synopsis of his dead-on diatribe here and a nice piece in support of the comments (if necessary) here.
Highlights include
Highlights include
"If we were breaking a women's record, everybody would go, 'Aren't those girls nice.' Just give them two paragraphs in USA Today or give them one line on the bottom of ESPN, and let's send them back where they belong, in the kitchen. But because we are breaking a men's record, we have a lot of people paying attention."
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Larry David on the Tax Cuts
Is right here.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
On The Bro'd
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Head Cheese
I have eaten more head cheese this year than I have in every other year of my life, combined. I always secretly hope that it isn't as, well, heady as the name sounds, but I always know, deep down, in-between chews, that I am eating throw away cuts or, if not, cuts that need more than just a brine and puree. I dislike it texturally and for its flavor, but have no problem with it conceptually, nor will I turn away cuts of tongue or cheek, but at least those have an obvious origin. Head cheese is a catchall, like someone telling you that your deli meat is turkey, beef, or ham. Those define meat from a specific animal, but there is plenty of meat on each animal that I wouldn't touch.
From the Wikipedia entry:
From the Wikipedia entry:
Head cheese (AmE) or brawn (BrE) is a cold cut originating in Europe. Another version pickled with vinegar is known as souse. Head cheese is not a cheese but a meat jelly made with flesh from the head of a calf or pig (sometimes a sheep or cow) in aspic. While the parts used can vary, the brain, eyes and ears are often removed. The tongue, and sometimes even the feet and heart may be included. Head cheese may be flavored with onion, black pepper, allspice, bay leaf, salt, and vinegar. It is usually eaten cold or at room temperature as a luncheon meat.
Historically meat jellies were made of the cleaned (all organs removed) head of the animal, which was simmered to produce stock, a peasant food made since the Middle Ages. When cooled, the stock congeals because of the natural gelatin found in the skull. The aspic may need additional gelatin in order to set properly.
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
Atheist Bus Ads Spark Outrage
That sounds like a nice summary of this article. I don't understand. Why the fear of an open dialogue? Are there that many religious people out there who are terrified of defending their beliefs? The whole thing is pathetic and a nice example of how many religious leaders and followers are more comfortable insisting on blind faith than working with the public, especially a skeptical one. Even then, I was pretty shocked at how swiftly and forcefully some of these ads have been rejected. At least we know this isn't a new problem.
Monday, December 13, 2010
December 2010 Mix
I made this mix of some stuff I've been into recently.
http://www.percussionlab.com/sets/andrew_solomon/december_2010_mix
pinch & moving ninja - false flag - tectonic
frozen border - 6.1 - frozen border
sp-x - extract - time to express
samuli kemppi - quantum mechanics - mote evolver
scuba - tracers (deadbeat remix) - hotflush
traversable wormhole - centauri dreams - traversable wormhole
o/v/r - descending the left corner - blueprint records
sigha - early morning lights (marcel dettmann remix) - our circular sound
reality or nothing - kalon 08 (sandwell mix) - rsb
frozen border - 3.2 - frozen border
furreshu - 1993 - project squared
pinch - elements - swamp81
demdike stare - all hallows eve - modern love
Recorded with vinyl.
http://www.percussionlab.com/sets/andrew_solomon/december_2010_mix
pinch & moving ninja - false flag - tectonic
frozen border - 6.1 - frozen border
sp-x - extract - time to express
samuli kemppi - quantum mechanics - mote evolver
scuba - tracers (deadbeat remix) - hotflush
traversable wormhole - centauri dreams - traversable wormhole
o/v/r - descending the left corner - blueprint records
sigha - early morning lights (marcel dettmann remix) - our circular sound
reality or nothing - kalon 08 (sandwell mix) - rsb
frozen border - 3.2 - frozen border
furreshu - 1993 - project squared
pinch - elements - swamp81
demdike stare - all hallows eve - modern love
Recorded with vinyl.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Metrodome roof collapses
Ron Paul teaches econ to Bernanke
Sounds crazy, right? Well, it isn't. Looks like Crazy Ron is about to do some damage.
Check out the above link for some nightmares and outrage.
On Thursday, House Republican leaders announced that Representative Ron Paul of Texas, the outspoken Republican libertarian who ran for president in 2008, will become the chairman of the subcommittee that oversees the Fed. His position on the central bank is captured in the title of his 2009 book, “End the Fed” (Grand Central Publishing).
Check out the above link for some nightmares and outrage.
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Kim Jong-Il looks at things...
...right here.
Primary challenge for Obama?
Not likely, but this is still interesting. The article does refer to Kennedy as a hipster, though.
As disappointed and angry as I am about the Obama presidency, I have to say that I am equally frustrated with the left in this country, especially liberals in and around my demographic. We showed up in record numbers in 2008, but so many of us thought that a single vote for the presidency was all it would take to change the corruption, collusion, and politicking in our federal government. It was foolish then and it is foolish now. Those votes weren't going to flip some magic switch. The problem is a system that requires huge sums of money to get elected, the public that does not care about the day to day activities of their elected officials (or the details of most laws), and the total lack of incentive amongst our elected officials to cooperate. Anyone who thought that a young Senator was going to completely change one of the largest democracies in the world was blissfully naive.
As disappointed and angry as I am about the Obama presidency, I have to say that I am equally frustrated with the left in this country, especially liberals in and around my demographic. We showed up in record numbers in 2008, but so many of us thought that a single vote for the presidency was all it would take to change the corruption, collusion, and politicking in our federal government. It was foolish then and it is foolish now. Those votes weren't going to flip some magic switch. The problem is a system that requires huge sums of money to get elected, the public that does not care about the day to day activities of their elected officials (or the details of most laws), and the total lack of incentive amongst our elected officials to cooperate. Anyone who thought that a young Senator was going to completely change one of the largest democracies in the world was blissfully naive.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Detroit's take on Suh's penalty
Bears win. You wouldn't know it though. Every Sunday I end up watching Sportscenter or the NFL Network, looking for highlights from the games I didn't see and hoping to hear a mention of the Bears' consistency, competence, and, at times, flourishes of brilliance. They don't exist. At the start of every season, I hope that once Favre falls apart, once the Giants prove uninspiring, that national sports coverage will move on to winning teams, to more exciting prospects. That never happens. The stories are always about the same teams, but the story lines change. Oh well. This is not the subject of this blog post.
Detroit gets a pass on referring to the call as "controversial" because when you haven't won a divisional match up since 2007, you get to say things like that. Detroit is sort of like your depressed friend who gets a pass for a lot of bullshit because you are just happy he or she hasn't gone completely nuts and, well, you hope they're working through things. Detroit gets to say a lot of mean things because we know they don't mean it, times have just been tough. Everyone else is full of it.
Detroit gets a pass on referring to the call as "controversial" because when you haven't won a divisional match up since 2007, you get to say things like that. Detroit is sort of like your depressed friend who gets a pass for a lot of bullshit because you are just happy he or she hasn't gone completely nuts and, well, you hope they're working through things. Detroit gets to say a lot of mean things because we know they don't mean it, times have just been tough. Everyone else is full of it.
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